The Not-So-Fabulous Fall - From the Left Coast
Written by John David, Wednesday January 07 2009
The Not-So-Fabulous Fall - From the Left Coast
I'm cramped at a table in Panera Bread, after my first surf in three months. A couple years ago I split my groin coming down from a floater on a lovely little Newport drainer. After not treating it properly, IE taking rest time, it has become a chronic adductor strain. So yea, a few months off. But it gave me time to put surfing around here in perspective.
First off, the West Coast had a slow fall. Down here in the OC we didn’t get our usual howling off shores from mother Santa Ana for more than a day or 2, coupled with no swell whatsoever. Nor Cal saw a big swell, and has the usual NW trickle – nothing spectacular, but So Cal sucked. I’m sure San Diego got a couple of nuggets, but I wouldn’t know. Meanwhile, the aloha islands pumped out the Best Triple Crown, blah blah blah, ever. I am never missing Hawaii, in the fall and early winter, ever again. I missed so much action this year I may as well label myself a Midwest middle-aged widow. Slater sleighs the title, reinvents what we surf on in hollow waves. There were careers on the line, bunch of ‘QSers right on the brink of advancing to the Tour (uh, Pat Gaduaskas) and just amazing waves. It’s a horrid thing to watch while your out on injury, slogging it out in an office everyday.
So next year, now this year, I will be going to the North Shore, bringing my kids and wifey and kissing my current way of life goodbye through a crystal clear barrel without a wettie on. I’ll be thinking about the interesting tour next year, wondering why Bede Durbidge is marketed so poorly for a number 2 rank, how I can capitalize on that, praying Simpo or some other OC surfer will make the tour so I can stop cheering for Chris Ward (no, never will), and lots of smiling. It’s Maui Time for 2009.
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